Emporio Armani
This year ski-slope chic was a prominent motif at Milan Fashion Week, playing a large role in the collections by Dolce and Gabbana and their more youthful line, D&G, as well as in the collection by Emporio Armani. Our favorite look mixes modern leather appliqué on charcoal gray shirts with rustic pants in a pattern reminiscent of Nordic knits. Armani gives the look a casual feel by adding subtle pockets and drawstrings to the pants. The fuzzy black scarves elongate the models’ necks and the gloves compliment the suspender-patterned appliqué on the shirts. (Look 37, Emporio Armani).
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester tends to favor darker shades in her designs and her Fall/Winter 2010 collection was no exception. In this particular look, the model is dressed in a chunky black knit sweater, a cowl-neck asymmetrical zip jacket and swishy pants that taper in a calf-hugging tightness just above his black patent leather boots. The look plays with conventional proportions of clothing – the sweater is much longer than most sweaters and the pants are an interesting mash-up between skinny suit pants and the more relaxed harem pant. (Look 14, Ann Demueleester).
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf’s fall collection focused on the idea of a modern gentleman, presenting polished, elegant and entirely wearable looks. This particular model is wearing a geometrically patterned grey shirt with both a black deep v-neck sweater and a cardigan in the same color. The pants are pleated just below the waist, but rather than looking frumpy and making the model look overweight as pleats often do, they billow gently, creating a fluid sense of movement in the pants. The two-toned shoes add a bit of pizzazz to the outfit – while the grey matches the pants, the brown adds a bit more color to an otherwise monochromatic color scheme. (Look 6, Viktor & Rolf).
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s fall collection for men focuses on the idea of a well-dressed French “gentilhomme.” It is all very European, given that most American men don’t carry large, leather bags, but above all, it is sophisticated. This look is based in various hues of rich brown, with only a peep of subdued color in the navy blue socks poking above the polished leather boots. The pants are looser than many French designers have made them in recent years (see the rakish collections of Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme). The overcoat has looped clasps and behind the smooth leather lining shown in front, it has a quilted interior. The accessories, classic rectangular sunglasses and chic black leather gloves, finish the outfit off and give it a suave, polished look. (Look 23, Louis Vuitton).
Versace
Set against a backdrop of neon blue lines intersecting randomly at ninety-degree angles, Donatella Versace took a leap into the future with her Fall 2010 collection. Leather, metal studs and wrap-around sunglasses reminiscent to those of X-men’s Cyclops, are used heavily in the runway show, all contributing to showing the collection as a cohesive unit. This particular look features a skinny leather jacket with vertical rows of studs running up the front alongside the off-center zipper. The jacket has right-angle detailing along the shoulders, creating the look of multiple layers of leather. The cutoff leather gloves make the jacket appear to extend further down the arms and hint ever so slightly at Lady Gaga’s “Poker Face” video attire. The pants have uneven pockets, a slim fit, and curved seams running along the inner and outer leg. The boots, heavy, tall and made of shiny, patent leather, confirm that Donatella means business. (Look 1, Versace).
Contact the writer at klepain@asu.edu
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